I’ve been meaning to write this newsletter for a few days but a leopard stalking past the window of Lynsey’s and my tent has prompted me to finally put finger to keyboard. The leopard in question was the local big tom, Mr. Tembo, who made such a racket stepping through the dried leaves just a couple of meters away that we thought it was one of the resident bull buffalo passing by! It was only the rhythm of his step that prompted me to shine my flashlight through the screen and confirm what it was – what a bonus!

The season is speeding by and the sky has already become really hazy - the light has taken on a somewhat magical aura. The brilliant red Flame Creepers are flowering, as are the delicate white flowers on the Albizia’s, making for excellent sun bird viewing which are taking advantage of all the new flowers. It has been a chillier than usual winter and the hot water bottles in our beds are still much appreciated. However the real news this month is of the lions.

For the past two years the lion sightings in the Lower Zambezi have been frequent however the pride had appeared to have broken up and not yet regrouped since Stumpy’s departure (& subsequent recent demise). On a drive yesterday I heard a faint growling and after much investigation and bush bashing, came across 16 lions happily feasting on a buffalo. These included Tag, Dan & Douglas (Stumpy’s increasingly impressive successors), Sally (last year’s sole surviving cub), 4 new cubs from this season, and 8 other lionesses. It is a while since we have seen so many lions in one spot and I am hoping the trend will continue, as well as the pride’s seemingly renewed success at making new lions.

On the same morning Steve was walking with some guests on the plains adjacent to Waterbuck Island and returned to his vehicle to find a male lion prowling around and sniffing its tyres. After the lion posed for a few photos it disappeared off into the bush presumably disappointed that the vehicle was not edible.

Indeed it is as pleasing to see these new lions, as it was disappointing to hear of Stumpy’s (the tail-less patriarchal lion of the Lower Zambezi) inevitable, but perhaps overdue, passing. Although he had been chased out of the area by the lions we call Dan & Douglas in November 2001 and had long ago been presumed dead, last month he returned with a vengeance. He was seen on the Chongwe River looking tragically thin and seemingly on his last legs, and then last week got into an enclosure in one of the villages and killed 13 goats, of which he ate one. The following night he got stuck into more goats and notched up another 10. However these were the last creatures to fall to his jaws, paws & claws, and Stumpy was killed the following day, age estimated at about 14 years and much older than the natural average of 7 years. Chiawa Camp bids a final salute to a magnificent warrior-cat that dominated the Lower Zambezi and gave so much excitement to our guests for so long. And so it is good to know that Stumpy’s genes live in his offspring (all with correctly apportioned tails!) that I saw contentedly devouring the buffalo yesterday.

We are pleased to welcome back all our repeat guests to Chiawa this season, from England, USA, Germany, Italy,France and Switzerland. It has been good to see you all and it has been great having you back at Chiawa as old friends. We look forward to seeing you all again soon during our off - season travels or back at Chiawa next year.

Also gracing us with their presence are the large breeding herds of elephant malingering around Chiawa Camp, and drinking daily under our viewing platform. This has made for wonderful viewing opportunities without having to leave camp. Same goes for the dead hippo that conveniently washed up in front of the viewing platform and provided 3 days of food for a male lion, a few hyenas, and dozens of vultures, and 3 days of fascination for Chiawa’s guests. It’s not often that one gets to watch feeding lion and hyenas from the comfort of one’s tent!

On re-reading this newsletter it comes across as a touch anthropomorphic. I would like to reassure everyone that the animals of the Lower Zambezi are as wild as nature intended, however Chiawa’s guides sometimes attach names to remarkable individuals of some species in order to keep better track of, and better understand, their movements and habits.

Until next time,

Grant & the Chiawa Team

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