Sept 2009

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Romance, Sacrifice & A Leopard Pride

First and foremost we are excited to announce that Old Mondoro is now, at last, fully part of Chiawa. No longer a joint venture we will be seeking to make it the very best that it can be and will be making some small but vital improvements to what is the Lower Zambezi's most intimate camp. So, please do keep reading these updates on what is a noteworthy achievement in this, Chiawa's 20th year.

Anyway, another month has slipped by & the newsletter I promised Grant ages ago is still a non-reality so I have decided enough is enough and have dragged my laptop down to the seat on the edge of camp so I have no distractions, at least not of the running-of-camp variety. Now, although I had the best of intentions, I have written the same sentence three times as I have distractions of a different kind and they are a reminder of just how special it is simply to sit in camp and enjoy.

Staring across the Zambezi the fish eagle’s are calling to each other, the hippos are basking in the sun whilst in camp two bush buck are browsing, three ele’s are scooping up Winter thorn pods while keeping a tentative eye on me. Warthogs are digging for roots, baboons are foraging for termites and the impala are looking as relaxed as one can when you are at the bottom of the food chain. This really is magical!

It has been an absolutely fabulous couple of months at Chiawa filled with excitement and surprise. Lots of regular repeat guests/friends who are like family, and some incredible sightings, both in and out of camp, from posing leopards to afternoon teas with the elephants and sundowners with the lions.

The seasons are changing and the bush is drying out making the game viewing exciting and sightings frequent. The current movement of the lions in the area has changed the game viewing dramatically this year, and the lions have spent plenty of time in and around camp. We never tire of listening to the lions roaring into the night, or more frequently the sound of lions mating. The lions however are not the only cats in the mood lately and although we haven’t seen the leopards mating we have seen two together (Mr Tembo and a young female) frequently and are crossing our fingers for cubs in the near future.

 Paul took this picture of a beautiful leopard that performed so well and dutifully climbed down the tree for the perfect set of photos. And then the "pride" of leopards we have been blessed to see on a number of occasions in the past week, including now as I type, four - yes 4 - leopards together playing, hunting, resting, drinking and feeding - day and night. Surely nowhere else can boast having a resident pride of leopards? Long may they stick around. Getting photos of them all together however is proving tricky but our guests this month are being blown away by this phenomenon.

While out on a game drive with Rory recently we came across another young female leopard who posed for us for about 20mins, she was so beautiful and gave us such a lovely sighting we all felt so privileged. As we headed on for our sundowners we stopped at AC point and watched the sun dip behind the Zambezi Escarpment. The sky turned beautiful shades of oranges and reds and of course we all couldn’t resist taking photo after photo, it is never something you can tire of. After a delicious Gin and tonic and a quick toilet break behind a “safe” tree we had all loaded back onto the vehicle and just switched on the spotlight when out from behind our “safe” tree a couple of meters away trots two lioness’s on the hunt. As you can imagine this caused all kinds of excitement and we followed them for a couple of minutes before leaving them to continue without interruption. Heading back towards camp we found the two male lions in hot pursuit of the ladies, and we all considered ourselves very lucky to have had three different cat sightings all within forty minutes of each other.

Here's some lighthearted photos of what looks like ox-peckers sharing a joke,
or  is this impala sticking its tongue out at us?



The oxpeckers were really shouting a warning to their host, a grumpy but cooperative old kakuli
and the impala was simply enjoying eating some natural salts from the soil.

WARNING! For those of you who had the pleasure recently of enjoying the male waterbuck who was living in camp, you may not want to read the following. For the rest of you the below has been one of the most exciting experiences that we have experienced in the bush!

On the night of the 17th August after a lovely dinner under the stars with everyone settled quietly in their rooms listening to the hippos mowing the lawns outside, an incident transpired that we could not have imagined. The events unfolded in this order below.

1.15am Michaela and Jason (camp managers) are abruptly woken by the extremely loud sound of what they originally believed to be the fighting of two hippos. Crashing and grunting so close to their little house they thought the hippos would crash through the wall.

1.17am Silence, followed by strangling sounds- Kayla and Jas now have strong doubts that it is in fact hippos

1.19am Loud crunching noises - they determine that it is definitely not hippos.

1.20am Jas grabs his torch and with Kayla very tightly gripping his arm (very likely causing circulation depravation) they inch forward to the window (the term window is used lightly as in fact it is a piece of shade cloth stapled to some wood) and gingerly shine out into the night. At first they see nothing and then below them they catch the gleam of an eye, literally 3m away from the house. There they see a male and female lion eating a waterbuck (this is later confirmed as our friendly waterbuck who had been seeking refuge in camp, in hindsight a deadly move!)

3.30am Loud crunching is still taking place depriving Kayla and Jas of sleep

4.30am Still loud crunching and growling and no sleep

4.35am Male and female lion begin mating
 

5.am Contingency plan put into place- operation Kayla and Jas rescue (after the guests have all been saved of course)

 6.15am The lions move away from the house briefly so Kayla and Jas make a dash for safety and head to the fire circle to share the story over breakfast.

6.30am While sharing the story a hippo races out of the water and comes running for the fire circle and guests, who all manage to scramble to safety

6.40am Two bull Ele’s enter camp and also head to the fire circle, again all guests head to the dining room for safety.

 Later that day (after a moment of silence for our friend) we carried the water buck to the dry river bed next to camp so we could continue watching the lions mating and feeding on the carcass all from the safety of the tent decks (as you can see from the photo) in prime position!

 The Ele’s are in camp daily at the moment and are providing us with hours of entertainment. Lumpy our frequent visitor constantly seeks out our company and will spend hours in front of the Satengi sleeping and feeding on the winter thorn pods between the Satengi and the dining room.

Some lucky guests have even had the privilege of listening to him snoring. Unfortunately this can mean that the staff and guests are trapped and at times we need to wait until the Ele’s decide to move on, not that anyone is complaining.

As you can see from the picture below, Jas is thrilled to be stuck on the dock as he and National Geographic photographer Marsel Van Oosten get a lovely up close and personal experience with Lumpy

 

 

As you know we love all things in the bush from the biggest to the smallest and this month we have had some exciting bird sightings (White backed night heron, Livingstone Flycatcher, Red Throated Twin Spot and BatHawk). The Trumpeter Hornbills and Green Pigeons are feeding on the fig tree fruit and the Lesser Masked and Southern Masked Weavers are all busy building their nest again in the Chinese lantern tree next to the office.

 


There are butterflies everywhere at the moment and they are so beautiful to watch as they gently float through the bush.  The guides went for an exploration up the Chowe river bed next to camp where they managed to get a lovely shot of a butterfly - Precis Artaxia which is new to our guides.

 

The tigerfish are now well and truly on the bite with this warmer weather so we have more of our guests wanting to spend longer days on the water - and who can blame them with that breeze, the scenery and all the action above and below the surface of the Zambezi. As usual the ladies continue to out fish the gents with all the big fish falling (& being released of course) to the fairer sex.

 

 

We can’t wait to see what the bush has in store for us over the next couple of months and you can be sure we will keep you posted. Until next time…..

 Kayla and the Chiawa Team

 

 

   

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