OLD MONDORO BUSH CAMP

OLD MONDORO NEWSLETTER

Old Mondoro Newsletter: May 2008: by John Pereira

Old Mondoro started a new exciting chapter in 2008, nevertheless no drastic changes transpired and the camp remains largely unchanged and it still maintains that delightful magic which makes Old Mondoro a truly unique camp and one of the most exceptional stays along the great Zambezi River.

Hippo’s still wallow daily in clear view of camp and announce their existence with their irritated grunts, puff’s and honk’s.

Croc’s still laze around in the hot African sun nestled comfortably between the dense reeds along the river edge, always patiently waiting for any creature to present itself as a potential meal.

Buffalo’s still hide and graze on the reed islands across camp knowing very well that the big cats wont dare hunt them in the very soggy conditions. Large groups of Elephant’s still stroll into camp daily to feed on the juicy winter thorn pod’s, and for some unexplainable reason the tree’s surrounding the four snug rooms seem to have the best pods in the valley, and Fish Eagles still sing their characteristic melody which can only be described as a true African moment.

So what has changed at Old Mondoro? Most readers will remember Roelof and Helen sadly left Mondoro in 2007 and according to everyone it was a great loss to the camp, during their three years as Old Mondoro’s management couple they left a pair of significant shoes to fill. They will be greatly missed by all the staff of Old Mondoro, but fortunately every dark cloud has a silver lining; to follow in their footsteps are two new and very enthusiastic bush babies.

John Pereira and Lana de Villiers started at Old Mondoro in early May 2008 both of them have their roots set very deep in South Africa. John was born and bred in the Western Cape region and grew up between the endless apple orchids of the Elgin district, Lana comes from Johannesburg. Both of them previously worked in the Limpopo province of South Africa where they met. John was a full time safari guide there whilst Lana completed her three year hotel management internship; both have a great passion for the bush albeit in very different ways.

Old Mondoro treated the couple with a very subtle introduction to the Lower Zambezi Valley as the month of May is usually quiet considering guest occupancy. Therefore John and Lana had more than ample time to fall into the comfortable flow of daily activities at camp.

Bearing in mind that May is normally a quiet game viewing month, the initial guests were treated to a vast array of wildlife which would put most plush Southern African lodges to shame.

The very first guest of 2008 had the camp all to herself, and arrived to a gigantic welcoming committee next to her room; Old Mondoro is visited daily by an impressive herd of +/-20 bachelor bull’s. Most seasoned safari goers knows that Elephant bulls are the big unwearied gentlemen of the bush, and to be greeted by twenty gentlemen on arrival was quite an experience to cherish and remember.

Old Mondoro’s rosette covered cats did not disappoint either, and it seems that the population is as healthy as ever; the very first guest was treated to three different sightings, with an astonishing (for Limpopo province) two sightings in one night! All of the sightings have been female leopards and a male sighting is still waiting out there.

A well-known character “Kinky” made an appearance in May; she’s a female leopard that has become a regular visitor in the neighborhood, named Kinky because a very distinct kink can be seen near the tip of her tail.

Buffalo’s are in ample supply and their billowing dust clouds are always a telltale sign of their temperamental presence on Chakwenga or Jeki plains. Beautiful sightings of large herds take place on a regular basis; one sighting was estimated to have been +/- 200 animals strong. The sighting included a newborn calf still wet with embryonic fluid, born on the very morning of the sighting. It was remarkable to see three very big bulls satellite the female and her newly acquired young one, they passed by the vehicle and it was made very clear; “get too close and there’ll be trouble”.

And then there is the all too renowned king of the jungle, or as the locals call them “the Mondoro”, the big cats really spoilt the camp’s first visitors not only by providing them with breathtaking sightings but also treating them to their powerful bone chilling roars. Sundowners, dinner-time and morning coffee were dominated by the big cats, proudly upholding their presence around camp. On one particular occasion the camp hosted a honeymoon couple fairly new to the African experience, throughout the evening the cats growled and roared, not hiding the fact that they were approaching the camp at a brisk pace. The staff were surprised with an unplanned early turndown, for the couple scurried off to their chalet not wanting to be caught outside while the cats were out and about.

For those more familiar with the local lion population, it is nice to know that the three young males that had swam across from Zimbabwe are still in the vicinity of Old Mondoro, and that Douglas from Chiawa’s side is still successfully fending off the young coalition. They were seen on numerous occasions throughout the month of May, though it is interesting to note that the three split up recently and at first the reason for the split was unclear.

Levy discovered one of the males first, in the presence of a female and a male cub. There was no sign of the other two males; the young male was observed successfully mating with the female, providing the guests with a perfect photo opportunity. On closer inspection of the photo’s it was noticed that the young male was tending to a rather nasty wound on his foot, he also had a slight cut on his nose, which led to immediate speculation to what happened to the other two males.

About two days later Levy found one of the other males from the coalition, this time it was the biggest one of the three who used to wear the characteristic tracking collar which had been put on by Zimbabwean researchers, only he no longer has the collar around his neck. Collar marks were clearly visible in his mane as the mane lacked some hair where the collar had chaffed it over its lifetime.

The lion was in prime condition except for a nasty wound under his left eye, and at this moment it became clear what happened to the coalition … “a female happened”.

It is thought that the youngsters had a fight about who would have first rights to the one of the available females in the vicinity; females are in very scant supply in the Old Mondoro region. As a result they probably separated until their hot tempers cool down a bit. It is not uncommon for male coalitions to split up because of female disputes and it is very likely that the three males will team up after the tempers have cooled a bit. One cant help and smile at how these cats behavior remind us so much of human habits.

General game sightings were as good as ever; Waterbuck, Impala and Kudu were seen on a daily basis. Throughout May the roaring and gurgling of rutting impalas confused almost all of the guests, and surprised them even more when they were told that the terrible sound was actually made by male Impala and not by any lion or leopard. Zebra was spotted on Chakwenga and Jeki plains. Night drives provided regular sightings of Civet’s, Genets, Porcupines, White tailed Mongoose and Side Striped Jackal; a rarer sighting included two Honey Badgers running into the darkness together!

There is so much that could be revealed and told of Old Mondoro and its surroundings, but this newsletter would end up a very lengthy paperback novel; that’s what makes Old Mondoro so very special - it has no dull word in its vocabulary, every sunset is picture perfect and every mug of steaming morning coffee tastes different, every game drive is a new adventure to be undertaken, every tree and bend in the road reveals a new satisfying surprise that only a previous Old Mondoro visitor can boast about.

It has been a truly splendid first introduction for John and Lana, as well as for Levy and all the other Old Mondoro staff, not to mention the visitors; definitely a grand start to what will certainly be a very memorable season.

OM Guest Book: Safari Season 2007

This has become our favorite camp! 20 plus elephants in camp for lunch! And the hippos – and the calm, and the wonderfull staff! Perfect! We hate to leave… Susi & Jean Walrand, Nassau, Bahamas, July 2007

This place is magical! We could stay in tent 4 for the next several years and love every minute. Helen and her staff made us so welcome, the food is superb, the guides knowledgeable and entertaining. It was a fabulous 4 days. We will be back! Charlie & Cynthia Robinson , San Antonio, Texas, USA, August 2007

One of our best experiences in this camp while traveling to Africa for many, many years!!! Irene & Rolf Pluess. Oberneunforn, Switzerland, September 2007

A fabulous place: refreshingly simple in structure and approach, yet uncompromising in service and safari experience. Thanks to an extremely hospitable team – we will doubtless return! Chris & Susie McIntyre, Expert Africa, UK, September 2007

In a world of over used hyperbole Old Mondoro is truly exceptional. It has been a privilege to get some sense of Africa in the raw at a camp that is run with an easy (apparently effortless) style that is totally in keeping with its surroundings…thank you. Nigel, Kim, Daisy & William Binks, Barnes, London, August 2007

Outstanding! The highlight of our trip! Spectacular camp and setting, brilliant hosts. Fantastic guiding…thank you. Ian & Jane Greves, Dulwich, London, October 2007

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